The information found on this page is for reference purposes only. We are NOT responsible for incorrectly installed headlight systems.
PLEASE ENSURE all items are included prior to starting installation – our complete LED conversion package should include :
-1x Left/Passenger LED Headlight Housing
-1x Right/Driver LED Headlight Housing
-2x LED Ballasts (mount these prior to installation of the lights on the vehicle)
-6x LED Ballast Mounting Screws (often inside one of the ballast boxes)
-2x LED Conversion Harnesses (1 per side)
– Instructions Link Card / Cards
All noted items above are REQUIRED for a proper installation. If you have purchased JUST the harness kit from us, ensure you have all of the items before attempting to install your headlights.
With the original headlights removed, which requires grille removal & may require other vehicle components to be removed as well, ensure all of your components are ready to install.
(THIS ONLY APPLIES TO HARNESSES PRE 1-29-19)** When mounting any relays or control boxes – they should have all wires/connections facing DOWN so water or moisture can not pool and seep in.
When mounting the BLUE RESISTOR boxes, these MUST be mounted to a metal surface and with AT LEAST 3-4 inches of clearance from any plastic components or wires. These get VERY warm and can melt / damage components. A good spot is often on the existing ground strap bolts located just inside the frame rail on each side – for this you’ll need to open up ONE mount tab on the BLUE resistor box with a drill bit, to fit the bolt shank through. (not applicable to harnesses after 1-29-19)
Each plug on the NEW harnesses corresponds with a factory plug from the vehicle. The ORIGINAL vehicle wiring has TWO H13 sockets (one is often grey the other is black) – if you experience ANY flickering from the low or high beams, SWITCH H13 plugs from what you originally installed. Black is most often the best choice.
The ONLY ONE wire that needs to be “tapped”, is a SWITCHED 12volt positive wire in or near the trucks fusebox (engine bay). The 12volt switched wire can be found by confirming which fuse and connected wire is HOT or ON only when the switch is in the ON position in the vehicle. This wire taps into the GREEN WIRE on the EGR bypass valve on the PASSENGER side of the vehicle. Picture noted on the bottom of this page. If your vehicle does NOT have this wire, you will NEED to test and utilize a different wire that has 12 volts only when the vehicle is switched on.
Kits from 2-1-19 to 5-1-19 – FORSCAN ECU Programming (or ECU programming at a Ford Dealership) is required for this kit to function correctly. This is a relatively straight forward process and we are working on a simpler solution for this. A Windows laptop is required for programming along with an OBD2 Hardware Port (we can supply this).
ALL headlight parameters must be switched to LED (low beam – high beam – turn signal) and any warnings/errors disabled for them. Any OUTAGE monitors for these circuits must be turned off also. Please reference the codes sheet here – https://goo.gl/om4raJ
Kits from 5-1-19 and forward have OPTIONAL auto programmer hardware that can be purchased when ordering the wiring harness. This will automatically program the ECU correctly for the new LED headlights and not require ANY Forscan programming.
BEFORE TESTING YOUR HEADLIGHTS – Turn on the dash control computer (generally behind the steering wheel for all on vehicle options) and ensure that the DRL option (daytime running light) is turned OFF.
Please email with questions or if support is needed – this installation should typically take a few hours with basic hand tools (excluding bumper/grille removal for access).
Any PLUG CONNECTION must have dielectric grease installed (a small dab is fine). This prevents corrosion on the plug pins which is a VERY common cause of electrical bugs and issues.
Click on a thumbnail to see the FULL SIZE image
Low beam or High Beam Flicker : Ensure your on-dash DRL option is turned OFF (see above) // Switch H13 input sockets (from grey to black or black to grey) / Confirm NO pins were pushed out from ANY plugs during installation (especially the H13 plugs)
Auto-On or Shutting Off Issues : Ensure your on-dash DRL option is turned OFF (see above) // Switch H13 input sockets (from grey to black or black to grey) / Confirm NO pins were pushed out from ANY plugs during installation (especially the H13 plugs)
Turn Signal Hyper Blinks : Ensure the BLUE resistor boxes are plugged in correctly // Confirm it’s only hyper blinking on the DASH indicator (check the physical headlight for a normal blink signal rate)
DRL C-BAR Goes Out : Ensure the DRL splice wires are secure and connected to the proper circuit // Ensure your on-dash DRL option is turned OFF (see above)
(Pre 5-5-17 harness kit revision)
If your turn signals “hyper blink” for any reason, there is a SINGLE additional wire, per side, to tap/splice. The wire is BLACK (red trace) wire seen near the multi-prong plug that has been re-routed into the harness. It has been wired INTO the RED wire coming out of the BLUE resistor box. You’ll want to CUT the wire near the multi-prong plug and re-route it to wire in BEFORE the brown OEM signal plug, as shown in the picture below.